Semuc Champey and Tikal

Semuc Champey and Tikal Ruins 

After a night stop over at the now familiar Antigua, Guatemala we hop in a ‘private shuttle’ on route to Lanquin, the base town for the stunning Semuc Champey pools. A translation for ‘private shuttle’ is roughly an awkwardly crowded uncomfortable mini van with a whole bunch of smelly backpackers that’s hot with no air con. Though being the safest, cheapest and most direct way to get around Guata we welcomed its convenience and bunkered down for the 8 hr journey with a strangely talkative Spaniard. A truck stop, a overly priced meal and a long conversation in broken Spanglish later we arrive in Lanquin conveniently in time for the afternoon down pour. This was a jungle storm like no other and while Juan is stuck in a steamy truck cabin, Dave is in the back with Spaniard and some locals seeking shelter from the streams flowing from the sky and the street. Because we stayed at Hostel El Portal we had to hold on for a 40minute 4wd to the hostel located right next to the Semuc Champey entrance. They cram 10 people in the back and while the rain is still teeming we make our way in the dark like cattle on their last voyage.

Thankfully its all worth it because the next day we are able to wake up and walk right up the gate entrance, other hostels location mean you have to do that trip to and fro each time you see the pools. It costs 50q ($6.75) to enter the area and thankfully you can see that’s going to good use. This beautiful area is formed by a limestone ‘bridge’ that passes over Lanquin river. It is essentially a gigantic cave underneath with megatons of water gushing through every minute. On top however, are the most beautiful tranquil pools of crystal clear aqua water, each flowing gently into the next. After a quick dip we hike up the 25min walk to the famous lookout and enjoy the green scenery and breathtaking views. Watching the torrents flow under the start of the rock gives you an idea of how they’re formed, I wouldn’t want to fall in that rapid.

One day felt like enough and a 6am shuttle greets us for our next ‘private shuttle’ to Flores to see the famous Mayan ruins, Tikal. This shuttle had chaotic beginnings and was a total rip off (don’t book through a hostel, but when the nearest building is half hour drive, there isn’t much choice) but we made it by about 5pm. We made a deal for Tikal and transport to Belize, had a few beers with new friends and hit the hay ready for our 4.30am shuttle to the Tikal ruins.

Our phone blinks 4.28am, we spring to life and rush out the door by 4.33am just in time to wait for the van that turns up at 5 to 5am. Somehow Dave scores shotgun and with the sun rising and blurry eyes we drive past a motorbike and some clothes on the side of the road. Confused, we continue and pass a man sleeping (we hope) length ways in the middle of the road! Shocked, we conclude he was likely drunk from the festival in Flores the night before but I guess we cannot be sure. We’ve all heard stories of gringo’s stopping to help and being jacked and we can only assume that’s why the driver simply went around and continued.

Tikal opens at 6am, you can bribe the guards to get in early if your there overnight but our trip, arriving at opening time, worked out just fine. We go through, pay our overpriced entry fee’s, map fee and coffee and make our way into the Tikal site. It’s 6.30am, no one in sight, Spider monkeys swinging above, howler monkey’s screaming in the distance and the slightly overcast morning gives this place a real jungle authentic feel. Full of excitement and curiosity we gawk up at the spider monkeys in amazement. Turns out they make a game of this and hit Juan with a bulls eye air raid in the form of poop. Not a bad shot. Wondering around the ruins was a mystical cultural treat and going early means you beat the heat and the crowds. It took us about 4-5hrs to cover the whole area with 5 temples and many more archeological sites this really gives you a feel for the pre Colombian Mayan epicenter.

With tired legs we retire to some shade for our shuttle back. We indulge in some more beers watching the sunset and some pretty crap street food then promptly hit the hay. Gotta be up for the 5am bus to Belize city! On route to Caye Caulker to see some fellow Whistlerites and a overdue return the white sands of the Caribbean sea.

Semuc breakdown:

Transport: Shuttle from Antigua to Lanquin takes around 8 hours shop around for the best deal and barter the price on this we paid $10

From Lanquin we got a free 4wd transfere to our hostel in Semuc Champey (try get in the front of the truck for a comfier ride).

Hostel: El Portal $14 for a private room – This is an eco hostel due to its location. The power here runs only from 6-10pm. So make sure you have a torch and charge your cameras the night before (rookie error!)

Food: We didn’t have much choice but to eat at El Portal. These were pretty tasty and large portions for around $6.

Activities: Visit one of the most amazing natural wonders of the world for $5 entry fee.

Flores and Tikal:

Transport: We had no choice and had to book at our hostel in Semuc which meant we paid way more then we should have $14. If you stay in Lanquin or get the chance barter a better price in town.

Accommodation: Mirador hostel – basic rooms but everything you need for your short stay $7 for a private.

Food: From Wednesday to Sunday find the lady selling Tostadas in the whole in the wall. Delisious and cheap street eat for less then $1.

Take your breakfast and lunch with you to the Tikal ruins as the options you have there are a total rip off and looks like you’d be pretty disappointed with the food there.

Activities: Book a sunrise tour to Tikal ruins. If your like us forget the guide, purchase a map for $2 and go and explore these amazing ruins. It gets super hot so pack lots of water sunscreen and insect repellant!