Sloths, monkeys and toucans in Costa Rica

We shot through Costa Rica and a surprisingly fast pace as we decided we couldn’t really afford to be there. So we chose two main spots and after realizing we couldn’t  afford to eat we may as well spend more time in countries we could. We both don’t feel any regret in doing this and loved the parts that we did see. If we had the time and the money, Costa Rica is an amazing country where you could spend a lot of time. The rainforests are mind blowingly amazing and we got to see some of the coolest animals around.

As mentioned in the previous blog, it was easy to get to Costa Rica from Bocos Del Toro. For $25 we got a boat, shuttle combo that delivered us right to the door of our hostel in Puerto Veijo. It's an easy boarder crossing between the countries and quite a novelty crossing countries by walking over a rickety old bridge! We were not 100% sure how sturdy this bridge actually was and how an earth semi trailers get across!!

 Puerto Viejo is the largest tourist destination in Costa Rica's small Caribbean coast and during the surf season, this cool laid back town is apparently pumping. We arrived just at the start of the dead season and it certainly was quiet, not that we were complaining. We were lucky enough to score a dorm room in the best hostel we have been to. Pagalu and if you are in the area it is a must to stay. The owners just thought of everything you need as a backpacker and the rooms were beautiful too.

We found Puerto Veijo stunning! Lined with coconut trees, crystal clear water, a rather rasta vibe, there was nothing there for us not to like. One of the things we enjoyed the most, was hiring bikes and exploring what this island had to offer. We also heard that the snorkeling was superb. However, the highlight fir us this time was not lazing around the beaches BUT fulfilling Juan’s life long goal of seeing sloths!! Ex pats of Costa Rica are working hard to re-educate its people about animal and rainforest preservation and the sloth sanctuary is doing exactly this.

After a rather hassle free bus ride towards Limon Dave and I jumped off in what looked like the middle of no where to find this alleged sloth sanctuary that we had been told to visit by friends. Much to my delight we got to spend 2.5 hours learning about and getting very close to sloth’s. Dave and I also got to have an exclusive lunch with Buttercup the sloth who decided to wake up and play around us as we chowed down on our poverty pack lunch. It was such a wonderful experience that we decided to visit the jaguar rescue centre the next day. The highlight of the well-informed tour being the half hour we got to spend playing with monkeys. They found Dave's hair rather tasty!!

Once deciding it was time to move on we caught a 4 hour bus to San Jose the capital of Costa Rica. With no desire to stay longer then a night we grabbed a hostel a few hours sleep and then headed for the Manuel Antonio bus stop the next morning. After catching two taxis to the correct bus stop (the bus stops had changed yet apparently this wasn't important information to pass I to the general public) we made it with enough time to explore the colorful fruit and vegetable markets. This felt like the only cheap food option we came across during our stay in Costa Rica.

4 sweaty hours later we arrive at the small town of Manuel Antonio which is boarded by lush tropical rainforest and national park that we njoyed exploring.

After two days here we weighed up the pros and cons of staying in a country we couldn't afford and decided to cut our losses and catch the 4.30 am bus (which we made by the skin of our teeth) to our next country Nicaragua.

Costa rica breakdown

Accommodation

Pagalu - Puerto Veijo $11 a night best hostel yet!

Transport: hire bikes for the day in small towns for $5

Bus rides between places ranged between $4-10 for 4hrs of travel very easy and safe.

Food: no food highlights except for amazing fruit market in San Jose spent $ 3 and got easy $25 worth of fruit and vegies

Activity: sloth sanctuary $25 (includes half hour boat tour) and jaguar sanctuary $14 and includes 2 hour tour. Both these places rely on your money from the entry fee to ensure that they can continue to run. There main aim is to ensure that all the animals can be sent back the wild if they can. At the Jaguar Sanctuary each afternoon a majority of the animals get taken back the wild with the workers and have the choice to stay over night in their natural habitat.

Bocos Del Toro

After a hassle free 8 hour overnight bus ride, we arrive in Alminatre the mainland where we catch our water taxi to Bocos Del Toro. The boat ride takes about twenty minutes on calm water and costs around $5. Bocos Del Toro Province consists of six densely forested islands and is once again surrounded by the crystal clear Caribbean waters that we have become rather fond of. We decide to stay on the main island – Isla Colon. It is more touristy, but provides us with a wide choice of accommodations, restaurants and dive schools.

Bocos town is very charming to the eye, as it is filled with colorful cafés, restaurants and hotels that are built onto the water. It gives the town great character and makes it an enjoyable place to sit and watch the sun go down while having a cervesa or a pina colada.

At first Dave and I could not figure out why everyone raved so much about this town, where were the beaches that we could chill out on and swim to cool down from the excessive heat??? After a little investigation we realized that the best beaches are on the islands that surround Isla Colon. For about $1.50 you can get water taxi’s across to the other islands and spend the day swimming, sunbaking, kayaking and bush walking.

Lion fish

Our favorite island was Isla Caranero. Here we would get dropped off at Bibi’s a bungalow restaurant on the beach that was part of a small resort. We enjoyed kayaking and drinking the best cocktails of our trip so far. Happy hour was between 4-7pm and for $2.50 you can get an awesome cocktail. The food looked fantastic but we spent our money on booze instead.

Another water taxi away is Isla Bastamentos. It takes about ten minutes to get here from Bocos and costs a little more then the other islands - $3USD each way. Due to the unexpected good weather, we chose to get dropped off in the main part of town and hike through the jungle to our destinations. This was a fun half hour walk through beautiful rainforest. However, we could understand why you would not want to walk this way if it had been raining. A half hour walk would turn into a half day treck if you didn’t get swallowed into mud pools along the way. At the end of the walk you come to an amazing beach known as Wizard Beach - beautiful yellow sand with clear water crashing onto the beach, framed by tropical trees. This was probably the first beach I have seen in my travels thus far that looks like Sunshine Coast. Here we spent the day lapping up the sunshine and bathing in the warm waters before taking another short hike through the forest to Red Frog Beach. On this walk we were lucky enough to spot the small vibrant red frogs that gave the beach its name. We thoroughly enjoyed both of these areas and almost had them to ourselves, besides the odd group of tours that would come to check out the beach for ten minutes or so. We were also lucky enough to score a water taxi directly back to Bocos so the half hour jungle walk need not be repeated and hence more time for happy hour Pina Colada’s – something which became a ritual every afternoon. For $2.50 why wouldn’t you??

After years of saying I would, I finally got my open water Padi dive certificate. There was weeks of maybe’s but ultimately Juan decided to sit this one out and spend the days on the beach looking at the water, not 15m under it. Although on the Caribbean, Bocas is renowned for slightly more murky waters than its neighboring crystal clear waters due to sediment in the sand. This results in some of the cheapest diving prices in the world. I paid $250 USD for the course which I was luckily enough to do when the weather was great and the visibility was over 15m. My first two dives were on a vibrant reef with a small shipwreck, a stones throw from the airport strip. Wanting to complete my course as soon as possible I asked to dive on there next trip, luckily for me that was a cave dive and a pinnacle dive out near wizard beach. Swimming through caves with small holes in the roof was amazing, full of life and something I will never forget, mainly because a dive videographer came and filmed our trip as she simply wanted to do the caves again. Giant crabs, schools of snapper, gropers, lion fish and trunk fish that looks like a confused tug boat all called these intricate cave systems home. Credit card might not have enjoyed it but I sure did.

Bocos Del Toro Spending summary –

This was the cheapest part of our trip so far.

Accommodation –

Hotel Cayo Zapatillas – on the main street Calle 3. It wasn’t the fanciest but had a private bathroom, cable T.V, Wifi and a kitchen for $18 a night.

Eating –

We cooked some meals as we had a kitchen and were able to do so for a few dollars. There is an abundance of supermarkets for this small town.

Our favorite quick stop local meal place was El Chitre just up from our accommodation. For $3.60 you got a whole plate of delicious fresh meat, rice and salad.

Natural Mystic Café on the main street is also a must when visiting. A little pricier then our standard budget but so worth it. Inside, it almost looks like an old Queenslander home. For $9.50 you must get the Mystic chicken the flavors were out of this world and for $11.50 the coconut creamy fish fillets and rice. Hands down best meal of the trip so far!!

Johny’s bakery across the road from us was also a cheap place to get breakfast, coffee and fresh bakery treats. Super cheap ranging from .50c – $3.50.

Transport –

Bus from Panama City $28USD buy in advance. Takes 8hrs and leaves at 8pm from the main terminal.

Taxi’s will hound you when you arrive to take to you to the water taxi place for $1 and  then $5 to Bocos Del Toro.

Transport between the islands ranges from $1.50 each way to $3.

Shuttle to Costa Rica boarder $25 includes water taxi price to mainland (takes around 2.5hrs to get to boarder and this will take you to your destination in Pueto Veijo once you go through the boarder 

Pirates of the Caribbean

Based on the advice of friends we decided that flying to Panama City is just too boring so thought what better time way to see the Caribbean by sailing from Columbia to Panama on a catamaran for 4 nights. Not sure why we thought going out the night before till 4am and then hopping on a yacht would be a good idea but it was too late to change our mind!! We get dropped at the little jetty where Fritz the cat awaits its new eager passengers. The Catamaran comfortably fits all of us who, with the similar journeys of backpacking through South and Central, get along great. Our lives are now in the capable hands of our captain Fritz, the Smiling ex-chef from Austria.

Diving first day

Fritz the character

After swimming and hanging around on the trampolines, with Dave most likely already burnt, we set sail out of the Cartagenian harbour bound for the San Blas islands and the Kuna people of Panama. Sounds like what dreams are made of and of course was an unforgettable journey but the first 2 days were unforgettable for entirely different reasons. As I write this I’m bobbing up and down about a meter every few seconds. Sailing to the San Blas takes about 36hrs of constant travel and constant motion. Within about 3 hours Juan had her head over the side and a frown on her face as the motion had got the better of her. She was not the only one as fellow passenger Tom had succumbed to the relentless motion and a few others felt like they were on the same path. Naturally the party pack of alcohol we brought on the trip remained unopened!

  

Soccer practice

After two days of sailing on open water, we arrive at the picturesque San Blas Islands.  We spend the next three days swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and lapping up warm tropical weather. The best way to get to the surrounding islands was simply jump off the boat and swim. The islands themselves, are very small and walking around them takes less then 5 minutes. You can stay on some of the islands, with small bars, bungalows and even volleyball nets, where we got to test our skills against some of the locals. Fritz turns out to be an avid spear fisherman, though don't tell anyone especially the Kuna locals as its not allowed, and he returns with 2 lobsters 3 crabs and a fish. Jose, the first mate, cooks up a feast combined with the tuna caught on the way to the San Blas and we all get messy devouring it.

 

Sunset on our last evening in the San Blas

Making sand balls was plenty to
make these guys smile

The islands are home to the local Kuna people, who don colourful dress and choose the simplistic island lifestyle. Often you can see them paddling their home made canoe’s around selling local produce and crafts to people like ourselves on the yachts. We were lucky enough to meet some of the local children and tried with our broken Spanish to converse with these happy little kids. To us their lives seemed pretty sweet, getting to play in the water all day long, making sand castles and playing soccer. We visited the island in the middle of their soccer practice and some of the guys spent the afternoon playing against these vibrant kids

Old Panama

It takes us two hours to arrive in Panama City from where we left the boat and Dave's sunnies. The two hour drive was more like a roller coaster ride, through the jungle in fast and thankfully modern 4wd with aircon. The roads themselves were generally in good condition but the drive was definitely a bit hairy, especially at one point where we looked out the window to see half of the new road lost to a fresh landslide!!

Modern Panama city

After 5 days of socializing with our fellow boat passengers we decide that’s its best not to part with each other yet and we all stay at the same hostel – Lunas Castle. This big hostel was conveniently located, had free breakfast and all that we needed for our two nights in Panama City. Unfortunately, as soon as we got off the boat Juanita became quite sick and we mostly spent our time hanging out and recovering. The city itself is juxtaposed with modern skyscrapers, big screen TVs and billboards at one end and old colonial buildings, cobble stoned streets at the other. Halfway between both is the famous seafood markets. Here you can get the most amazing inexpensive ceviche, a dish that is typically made from fresh raw fish marinated in citrus juices such as lemon or lime and spiced with chili peppers. For $2 we got a big cup of fresh delicious prawns. Naturally we (Dave) had to see the Panama Canal and went to the information centre at Mira Flores locks.

Next stop Bocas Del Toro and Costa Rica!

Colombia summary

Everyone loves to dream about their next travel destination and usually the first thing stopping them is the unknown. How much will it cost was the first questions we asked and we had a bunch of awesome friends who guided us and helped us plan. So if anyone reading this is interested in traveling to Central America this is a guide to what we spent and where we stayed.

Cartagena
Makako Chill Hostel 21,000peso (11.80AU)
Chill house hostel (linked to Makako) 20,000peso (11.20AU) - we stayed here longer but both are good

Taganga
La Casa de Felipe is hands down the best. Free breakfast, and almost looks like a resort though is a little expensive. Private room with bathroom for 65,000peso total (36AU). Must get a 19000 steak, cooked by the French chef and is brilliant.

Minca
 Casa Loma Minca is run by a british guy with the most amazing view, definitely the place to stay. 3 person dorm for 20,000peso (11.20)

Travel
Taxi to Cartagena's bus terminal is about 20 bucks so just get the $1 dollar local bus, takes 1/2hr.
Bus to Santa Marta is 20,000 but make sure you get a direct bus.

Food
Cartagena supermarkets are much the same as the states. We cooked most meals as the tourist trap restaurants were too expensive. Avocado's are 1,000peso on the street but wine is more expensive than whistler.
In Taganga you must try the potato maiz fried street food stuffed with cheese. For 1500peso you cant go wrong.
Beers are less than a dollar in the supermarket and about 3,000peso (1.70AU) when out.

Colombia part 2 - Drinks, Mud and Bridie!

Delicious and less than a buck

When we return to Cartagena we really start to feel at home. We enjoyed the street eats, knew our general way around and felt much safer however as we were warned Cartagena is definitely not cheap. Although it’d be possible to live on $25 a day we didn’t travel to these beautiful countries to eat 2 minute noodles and not experience what the country offers. So in order to pay for travel and activities we are buying cheap groceries and cooking as much as possible. For 30,000cob (17US) we bought enough vegetables fruit and pasta for 3 decent healthy meals each. I guess it’s not that expensive after all.

Cartagena was once a
inexorable target for pirates

Cassie Bridie and Juan standing on the wall

We were greeted by a surprise that afternoon in the form of Bridie and Cassie, Juanita’s friends from the first whistler season. Stoked to have some friends in town, not that we don’t love each others undivided attention and company, we act as tour guides and walk around the old wall next to the sea. Our big plans of going to a salsa club end up just drinking at the hostel all night. Dave starts doing what drunken Dave does best and makes a new best mate with the night man at the hostel. For over an hour Pocholo and Dave talk in broken Spanglish witht much help from charades and google translate.

MUD Volcano -Volcano Del Totumo

Paper mache volcano

Bartering is a skill best learnt fast. Almost everything is available cheaper especially if you know how to ask. Unfortunately even after Dave befriended his new best mate Pocholo we couldn’t get a cheaper price than $40,000pp ($22.5USD). So we took to the Cartagenian Calle’s and Carrera’s to find a better deal. The first commisionist we met offered the same tour for 35,000 and though we managed to agree on $32,500pp ($18.40USD). Doesn’t sound like a great triumph but every dollar counts when you’re on our budget and its all relative, the money we saved is enough for some of the best local lunches in town. Though don’t get me wrong, we spent it on alcohol instead of course.

Sardines in a can

Floating in mud

Perhaps our imagination of a volcano was a little disconnected from reality as we both chuckeled a little bit at the mound of dirt before us. Juan thought it looked like a paper mache school project maybe as big as a house. Though our initial disappointment was quickly abolished as we one at a time immersed ourselves, like sardines in a can, in the dense, thick, warm mud. Possibly the weirdest experience of our lives, the mud is dense so you float. But floating does not justify the experience, its like being suspended with a miraculous ability to not need to do anything to keep your head comfortably above the surface if your in the standing position. You can sit and play with the mud on the surface and not need to move, unless your knees absent mindedly decide to join the party up near your head. Swimming is near impossible and to move people around they lay you down (with fat men trying to massage you for $3,000cob) and push you along. Sounds hilarious? After about half an hour bobing around in the small pool sized mud bath we were led down to a lake were old overweight ladies washed your hair and clothes and vigorously stuck their fingers in your ear for a pricely figure of 3,000cob ($1.70). If your in Cartagena you have to do this. 

Bridie and Juan

As Bridie and Cassie were still with us and it was our last night in Cartagena we finally got a chance to go out and party. After playing fuck the dealer with a bunch of people at the hostel we ventured to the Media Luna hostel for a party. Turns out it cost 10,000 entry fee and there were hundreds of people there but after a drink at a different bar and courtesy of some new friends we got in for free. 4am came around quick and we had just 5 drunken hrs sleep before we had to get up to sail with the Pirates on the Caribbean.

Learning lessons in Colombia

“Colombian government regulations require foreigners to provide proof of onward travel before boarding international flights.” We learn this crucial information from the impolite budget airline’s hostess as we attempt to check in, just 2hrs before departure. We proceed to frantically run between two opposing LAX terminals to access the (expensive) wireless internet and dodgy up a fake receipt from the captain who ultimately ends up taking us from Colombia to Panama a week later. Its accepted and we’re on our backpacking journey through Central America with adrenaline charged grins and 10 minutes to spare.

Bad coffee, uncomfortable sleep on a Florida airport floor and Juan’s favourite sound of kids screaming accompanies us until we eventually find ourselves stepping off the plane and into the wall of humidity that is Cartagena, a historic old town once a Spanish stronghold on the Caribbean coast.

Cartagena's old town

We thought we had a decent hold on the Spanish language prior to landing in Colombia but to our dismay we soon learn how much we still need to learn. The lovely fruit ladies, all dressed up to trap silly tourist like ourselves, were too hard to avoid. After asking the price all we could grasp from the response was "tres" – three in Spanish. So while fumbling with the exchange rate in our heads and the hundreds of thousands in our wallet we hand over tres mil (3,000) each. Turns out she actually said trescientos (300) and we just paid enough for two whole watermelons each, but only got a slice.

Lesson two was the importance of "no" taught forcefully by two Colombian women trying to massage our hands. “No gracias” faded away as we melting into allowing them to massage us hands. Then legs, shoulders and back. We were massage raped, led to trust them and at our weakest (most relaxed) and bam they sprung the price on us. 50,000peso's each! That’s over twice a nights accommodation, ridiculous. Alas after much miscommunication and a proud Colombian tour guide translating we end up parting with 25,000peso’s a piece. Turns out that’s still 3 times the going rate.

Cartagena Salsa

Feeling a little defeated we sulk home with our tails between our legs.

A new day a new dawn and a day relaxing on the beach followed by watching the salsa dancing in the main square with a cold cerveza was just what we needed. Now we were getting into the swing of the Caribbean life.

Taganga sunset

With a few days to kill before sailing to Panama we decide to hop on a four hour bus ride east and arrive in Taganga to a absolutely stunning sunset on the beach, complemented perfectly with 70c beers and the most delicious fried potato maize thing stuffed with cheese and topped with guac for under a buck. Something we frequented often. To top it off we decide to “splurge” on a $10.50 steak at La Case De Felipe, highly recommended by Josh and Emma, it certainly didn’t disappoint!

Learning to barter we end up on a snorkel trip to the beautiful playa concha in the Tayrona national park for 30% off. Snorkling and 4 hrs on the beach was more than enough to paint dave a new shade of lobster, Whistler moon tan just didn’t cut it.

Drowned rats back at the Minca hostel

Taking the advice of two excessively tall travelers we move from that awesome hostel to another must do. Minca, high up in the mountains behind Santa Marta, a lush nature wonderland. Just 45mins inland (longer if your insane cabbie slides into another car - and blocks the road for 45mins while arguing), it is a stark contrast to the bustling dusty city streets of Santa Marta. With just one night to play in the hills we rush out on a 1hr hike to an incredible waterfall near an organic coffee farm. Half an hour in we realize we’ve forgotten our new waterproof rain jackets and it starts to pour! We push on and the rain subsides as we arrive at the two cascading waterfalls, greeted by delicious organic coffee, the friendly locals and the intoxicating beauty of the region. Just as we decide to leave the rain returns and brings its unwelcome friends thunder and lightning. With thunder crashing at our feet and a curious toad running on Juan’s foot in the confusing we walk/jog back to the hostel in the clouds looking like drowned rats but still smiling ear to ear.

Pozo Azul

A touch lit dinner (as the power was lost in the storm) with some new found friends and an early night was on the cards, ready for a bright and early adventure to Pozo Azul (blue pools) at 7am. Our walk to the is accompanied by 3 loyal dogs and clear skys. Though the pools turned out to be brown we still got a dose of excitement as our four legged friends decided to ward off a passing Colombian motorcyclist. The man hastily stops and starts hurling Spanish abuse at us, waving at the dogs and blaming us. We blurt out “no perro” meaning ‘no dog’ – evidently our Spanish needs a little work.

We reluctantly leave Minca and return to Cartagena to meet our future Captain Fritz. An hour passes trying to follow his directions and we ultimately end up eating at the restaurant next to our hostel, an awesome dinner for less than $20 total, we felt guilty for splurging even though we could spend more on maccas at home. Everything's relative when traveling on a budget.

There’s more for a later date. Floating in mud and some surprise guests!